Archaeological analysis of pig teeth uncovers unexpected diet in historic Chinatown

During the late 1800s and early 1900s, the United States grappled with intense anti-Chinese sentiment, particularly among working-class laborers who perceived Chinese workers as economic threats. Despite facing discriminatory laws such as the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, which banned Chinese laborers from immigrating to the U.S., Chinese migrants in Los Angeles Chinatown found innovative ways to navigate and thrive amidst racial hostility, as revealed by recent archaeological research featured in the January 2024 issue of American Antiquity.

Led by Jiajing Wang, an assistant professor of anthropology at Dartmouth, the study challenges mainstream historical narratives by uncovering the resilience and self-reliance of Chinese migrants “under structural racism.” Wang’s collaboration with historical archaeologist Laura Wai Ng from Grinnell College and Tamara Serrao-Leiva, chief deputy and curator of anthropology at the San Bernardino County Museum, sheds light on the overlooked everyday struggles of early Chinese migrants.

The research originated from artifacts excavated in the 1980s from Old Chinatown in Los Angeles during the construction of the Los Angeles Metro Rail at Union Station. Among these artifacts were boxes of pig bones, which Wang, an anthropological archaeologist specializing in ancient foodways, recognized as valuable resources for understanding dietary practices.

By analyzing the dental calculus on pig teeth, the team gained insights into the pigs’ diet, revealing a surprising prevalence of rice consumption. Microfossil analysis of 10 pig specimens’ teeth showed phytoliths from rice leaves and husks, indicating a diet predominantly composed of rice. This finding contradicts the dietary practices of white hog farmers in California, who typically fed their pigs barley and wheat, and sourced pork from the Midwest where corn was the staple feed.

Furthermore, the presence of Ascaris roundworm eggs in the pig specimens suggested unsanitary conditions and potential fecal contamination, highlighting the challenges faced by Chinese pig farmers in maintaining hygiene and health standards amidst adversity.

This interdisciplinary approach, combining archaeological analysis with historical research, offers a more nuanced understanding of the economic strategies employed by Chinese migrants in Los Angeles Chinatown. By uncovering material remains that reflect the lived experiences of marginalized communities, archaeology contributes to filling gaps in historical narratives and amplifying the voices of those traditionally silenced by mainstream records.

A selection of pig jaw specimens analyzed in the study. Credit: American Antiquity (2023). DOI: 10.1017/aaq.2023.79

As Wang aptly summarizes, “Archaeology contributes to that picture because we are recovering material remains that record the everyday life of people who normally would not have had a voice in public records.” Through this collaborative effort, the study not only enriches our understanding of Chinese American history but also underscores the importance of recognizing and commemorating the resilience of marginalized communities in the face of structural discrimination.

Source: Dartmouth College

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